The 2022 Riesling Wachenheimer Altenburg P.C. is on Triassic sandstone with a loess cover bordering the forest, benefitting from shade in the afternoon and later ripening. This is initially shy, teasing with tender citrus and a gentle savor that reminds of citrus foliage. The palate is taut and tight, concentrated and svelte, really fine-boned and elegant, absolutely singing with its bone-dry nature and near austerity.
This tiny 0.4 hectare vineyard holding was planted in 1991 and is located high on the slope in the village of Wachenheim above Gerumpel. The total size of Altenburg is just 1.22ha and the steepness of the slope which edges on to the forest also means this is the coolest site of the all the Bürklin-Wolf vineyard holdings. The vineyard has very meagre and stony soil and excellent drainage giving a wine of real density with fine acidity giving structure and finesse and great ageing capacity. Wonderful acidity giving a seemingly endless finish. A favourite for us.
‘Imagine a beautifully ripe apricot and you have a very good idea of how this wine smells. On the mouth-filling palate you have all the golden fruits of autumn. Maybe it isn’t the most aromatically complex wine, but the beauty is hard to resist. Delicate salty and savory finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Wild-fermented in large neutral oak. Vegan. Drink or hold.’ 94 points, Stuart Pigott, JS Wine Ratings, July 2023.
