In this day and age, to find a Pinot Noir from Burgundy with this much character, this much non-flashy juiciness, and this much terroir expression at this kind of asking price is virtually unheard-of.
The Thevenet family's Bourgogne Rouge, from estate-owned vineyards in their corner of the Maconnais, is raised partly in cement and partly in used barrels--a proper elevage rather than a quick passage in steel. It aims to be no more important than it is, thankfully, offering a burst of varietally spot-on red fruit, a touch of savory spice, and just enough freshly turned earth to let you know you're in Burgundy.