olek bondonio
Olek Bondonio may just be the best Barbaresco producer you've never heard of. It's remarkable that in this age, when Piedmont receives as much global attention as Burgundy or Bordeaux, that someone who makes Barbaresco as soulful and ageworthy as Olek's can fly under the radar. The world is starting to realize something special is happening at this tiny estate, though, so today we're happy to offer a small amount of Olek's incredible Barbarescos from the "Roncagliette" and "Starderi" crus.
While Olek may not be well known, his vineyard certainly is. His winery, actually an old family home he inherited in 2005, sits at the top of one of Barbaresco's best crus, Roncagliette. This is a steep, southwest-facing amphitheater of blue clay over limestone. It's famous for being the source of Angelo Gaja's legendary Sori Tildin bottling, which goes for a cool $500+ per bottle on release. In fact, Olek is the only producer besides the Gaja family to farm this incredible site. Amongst Barbaresco producers and Piedmont diehards, this is widely regarded as one of, if not the, best sites in the entire appellation. Olek also produces a small amount of Barbaresco from the Starderi vineyard of which he rents from an elderly couple, and is one of the top vineyard holdings of Giorgio Rivetti of La Spinetta fame. Here the vines average about 40 years of age and sit on top of blue limestone and clay.
In the cellar, Olek is as rigorous and traditional as they come. Working in the same mold as the legendary Barolo producers like Mascarello and Rinaldi, his Nebbiolo grapes undergo long macerations of up to two months. Olek has no-one to answer to, he makes the wines as he pleases, and his intuition leads him to nowhere but greatness. Fermentation happens spontaneously, aging takes place in large, neutral Slavonian botti located on the ground floor of his 200 year old farmhouse, the now cellar that was previously where the cattle used to live. The wines are never fined or filtered, he is a minimalist in the cellar. No chemicals or fertilizers are used in the vineyards, and Olek tends to every vine himself. The resulting wines possess the incredible soaring aromatics of great Nebbiolo – sweet red fruits, dried rose petals, balsamic, and tar – in spades. In general, the 2021 vintage in the Langhe boasted a slightly colder winter and spring than in previous vintages, but it was a long and hot summer in 2021, so you’ll still see some of the power of the ’20 and ’19 vintage. There’s a slightly more fine tannic structure and acid signature in this vintage and classic for this style, however, these are Barbaresco worthy of holding, if you can.
The excitement at discovering a producer like Olek Bondonio can't be overstated. Personally, I have been absolutely floored by the quality of the wines thus far, and to have a Piemontese wine of this quality within reach is becoming rarer and rarer. We have no doubt these wines will follow the same trajectory as other Nebbiolo producers of similar quality, which is to say they'll get increasingly difficult to source and more expensive. Right under our noses is a producer that rivals any of the great, iconic names of the region, for a quarter of the price. Don't miss this opportunity to grace your cellar with another vintage of these wines.
Very limited availability.
Wines arrive Friday October 4th.
Shipping and store pickup available.
WINES ARE PRICED THE LOWEST IN THE US.