Joseph Dorbon Arbois Vin Jaune 2009 620ml

Joseph Dorbon’s setup is simple: four hectares of organically tended vines on prime slopes above his home village of Vadans; a horse to help him plow; and a subterranean 17 th -century cellar in which his soulful wines slowly take shape. Joseph rushes nothing, and even his Macvin du Jura spends over a decade in decrepit barrels before bottling. Flagrantly exceeding the appellation’s six-years-and-three-months minimum, he releases his Vin Jaune only after a full ten years under the veil, and only in certain vintages. The result is an oceanic wine of seemingly impossible power, with raging acidity wed to luscious, salt-caked yellow fruits, and given additional complexity by a raw-almond character that stops short of overt oxidation.