Benjamin Leroux Pommard Rouge 1er Cru Rugiens Hauts 2018

Rugiens makes Pommard’s most powerful and, some would argue, greatest wines. Famously, there is a clear difference between the less-favoured higher section and the lower, but that distinction is effectively removed by Ben’s plot being at the bottom of the high section and his excellent handling of the wine, with 30% whole-bunch. This has an extraordinary counterpoint between dark, iodine aromas inside dark fruit, and a lifted creamy, coulis of fruit on the palate. Rather special. Drink 2027-2034.