Francois Bitouzet—scion of the elite Domaime Bitouzet-Prieur, our reliable source of beautifully classical Volnay and Meursault for four decades—produces a Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (organically farmed, spontaneously fermented) that captures the majesty of great red Burgundy in a pure and uncompromising manner. Comprised of two-thirds Pinot Noir (planted in 1974) and one-third Gamay (planted in 1953), all from a single plot within the confines of Volnay proper, it receives a proper 16-month élévage in barrels (all used). The 2023, which has just landed, offers an exuberantly juicy profile, mellow in its tannins yet surprisingly brisk in its acidity given the vintage’s warmth, and with the refined, savory essence of great Volnay. I can scarcely imagine a better entry point into the world of real Burgundy for the price.
A mere 250 cases for the country, a sizable amount of which is already spoken for by those dialed in to the wine historically. Unlike the Passetoutgrains from certain ultra-allocated gods of the region, Bitouzet’s is openly available, first-come first-served. I urge you to grab your share during the inevitably brief period it will be in stock.
